Rihanna in Buccellati bracelets at Paris Fashion Week
Getty Images
When thinking of Italian fashion dynasties, the Fendis, Pradas and Missonis immediately spring to mind. But Buccellati, the high-end jewellery house, is another family-run brand that has survived the test of time â" 100 years to be precise.
Founded in 1919 by Mario Buccellati, the jeweller became a global brand â" with stores in the US, Asia and across Europe â" thanks to the vision of his son, Gianmaria Buccellati, during the 1970s. Gianmariaâs own son, Andrea Buccellati, now heads up the business as honorary president and creative director, and Andreaâs daughter, Lucrezia Buccellati, joined the firm as co-creative designer in 2014. âDesigning in the Buccellati style is inside of us,â she tells Vogue. âYouâre born with it. Thatâs how we can continue the tradition. Itâs been a part of my life since I was little.â
The Best Jewellery From The Met Gala 2019Tradition is key to the Buccellati style. Each one of the houseâs jewellery pieces is still handcrafted, using techniques that date back to the Renaissance, including rigato, an engraving method that involves etching fine parallel lines onto gold to create a sheen. âWeâve always used different techniques to other brands; you can recognise Buccellati pieces from afar,â notes Andrea. The brand has even invested in its own school to train up the highly skilled artisans its pieces require. âEngraving has been [largely] lost in the last 50, 60 years because itâs so expensive,â says Andrea. â[But] itâs very important for us to keep the quality of the workmanship.â
Alexa Chung at the 2018 Met Gala in a bespoke Buccellati necklace and earrings
Getty Images
Staying true to its identity over the past 100 years has also been key to the Milan-based brandâs success. Andreaâs sister and Buccellatiâs global communication and marketing director Maria Cristina says: âItâs timeless; we donât follow fashion.â A point perfectly illustrated by the Vintage collection being launched next month to celebrate the jewellerâs centenary. Among the 200, one-off pieces (half of which will go on sale) is a crystal necklace designed by Mario Buccellati for the Italian actress Eleonora Duse during the 1920s. âItâs one of the most amazing pieces,â says Maria Cristina. âItâs part of the family collection and not for sale obviously because [itâs a] historical piece.â
Buccellati pieces (which can cost up to six figures) undoubtedly appeal to a glamorous clientele, with celebrities like Rihanna, Alexa Chung and Jessica Alba among its fans, along with royalty. However, Maria Cristina believes that what truly connects its customers is a love of art. âThey have a special affinity for art; they understand the work and the skill of the artisans,â she says.
Vogue Reveals The Royal Jewels Set To Make Auction HistoryThe brand is currently expanding into the Far East. Around 30 per cent of Buccellatiâs customers are in Asia, with plans to grow further â" helped by Buccellatiâs owners, Chinese conglomerate Gangsu Gangtai Holding, which bought a majority stake in the company in 2017. âAsia,â says Andrea, âis the most important market from the point of view of developing the brand.â
(Left to right) Lucrezia Buccellati, Andrea Buccellati, Maria Cristina Buccellati and Luca Buccellati
Courtesy of Buccellati
Attracting a younger customer is also a priority for the Italian jeweller. Enter Lucrezia, who is marrying age-old techniques with a modern gaze to appeal to a new audience. âOur collections are [now] focused on a younger generation,â says the 30-year-old. âWith my design, I always think of women like me. We want much more simple, wearable jewellery.â This year, the house will launch limited-edition pieces from its Opera collection aimed at millennials. And when it comes to the next generation of Buccellatis? âI hope maybe one of my kids likes [jewellery],â Lucrezia says. âItâs amazing to all be working for this beautiful business and to see how itâs grown.â
Thank You. You have successfully subscribed to our newsletter. You will hear from us shortly.
Sorry, you have entered an invalid email. Please refresh and try again.





